The Land
Straddling the equator in western South
America, Ecuador has territories in both the Northern
and the Southern hemispheres. It borders Colombia
to the north and shares a border Peru to the south
and to the east. The Pacific Ocean is Ecuador’s
western border. Ecuador, 256,370 square kilometers
175.size. Despite Ecuador's diminutive size - about
equal to the North American state of Colorado - it
is one of the most geographically diverse countries
in the world. Ecuador is comprised of four distinct
geographical regions: El Oriente (Amazon jungle) in
the east, La Sierra (Andes mountains) in the center,
La Costa (the Pacific coastal lowlands) in the west,
and the majestic Galapagos Islands off the coast.
Ecuador is politically split into 22 provinces
The central portion of Ecuador includes
the great mountain and plateau region of the Andes,
where a number of peaks rise to more than 20,000 feet.
The major cities are: Guayaquil (2.200.000). Quito,(
1.800.000) Cuenca.(700.000)
The People
Ecuador's population is estimated to
be 12,900.00, with a less than 2% annual growth rate.
The population is ethnically mixed: 45% mestizo (mixed
indigenous - Caucasian), 35% Indigenous, 10% Caucasian,
10% African.
Local Time
Eastern Standard on GMT-5 (same as New
York, except during daylight savings months when Ecuador
is one hour behind). The Galapagos are one hour ahead
of the mainland.
Climate and Clothing
Due to geographic differences in altitude,
longitude and latitude, and the climatic effects of
the Pacific Ocean, it is an excellent travel destination
year-round. La Costa's (Coastal lowlands) climate
is usually very warm with temperatures averaging 25
degrees C (76 F) to 31 C (90 F) during the year. The
rainy season (December to May) is warm and very humid.
The dry season is less humid but still a little muggy.
La Sierra (Andean Highlands),, on the
other hand, has a rainy, cold climate from November
to April and a dry one from May to October. The climate
in the Andes varies according to the altitude and
the time of the year. In Quito the temperature ranges
from 7 degrees C (55 F) at night, to 26 C (78 F) at
noon, averaging 15 C (64 F).
El Oriente (Amazon region) normally
has a warm, humid and rainy climate. The average temperature
varies from 23 to 26 oC (72 to 80 F). The drier season
is generally November to February but varies by region.
The Galapagos islands enjoy a warm and
dry weather with a temperate climate with temperatures
ranging between 22 and 32 degrees centigrade.
The Language
Spanish is the official language, numerous
indigenous tongues. Quichua, the language of the Incas,
is the most widely spoken indigenous language. English
is commonly spoken among professionals and tourism
providers
Entry Requirements
Ecuador requires a valid passport from
all travelers, as well as proof of return to your
home country or onward journey, though this is rarely
checked. At this time no yellow fever vaccination
is required.
Passports
Always carry your passport (or an official
copy, see below) while traveling in Ecuador, as military
and police checks are semi-frequent and not pretty
if you are caught without your documents. However,
if you are staying in Quito, Guayaquil or another
large city for an extended period, it is advisable
that you carry only a copy of your passport. For a
reasonable fee most foreign embassies provide their
citizens with an "official" copy of their
passport that is recognized by Ecuadorian law.
Entry Documents
Citizens of most nations can stay in Ecuador for
up to 180 days per year. Immigration officials will
stamp either 60 or 90 days in your passport when you
enter. If you know you need more than 60 days, be
sure to tell them before they stamp your passport.
Currency
On September 13, 2000, Ecuador completed its dollarization
process; the sucre was eliminated, at least theoretically,
and the country's currency was legally changed to
the US dollar.
Electricity
Electric appliances operate on an alternating current,
the same as the United States - 110 volts, 60 cycles
(Hertz) AC. This means that European travelers need
to bring an adapter for laptops, cameras, hair dryers,
etc., that they bring with them.
Airport Departure Tax
USD 25 dollars is charged upon leaving Ecuador via
an international flight.
Health
Yellow fever vaccination certificate is required
for visits to the amazon rainforest area.
No inoculations are required for entry (except if
visiting the amazon area where yellow fever vaccination
is required), but travelers with heart conditions
or high blood pressure should check with their family
doctor about high-altitude travel, if they will be
visiting the highlands. Drink bottled water throughout
the country.
General Information
Food and Water
The tap water in most of Ecuador is potable, but the
chemical content varies from place to place. To avoid
problems, we recommend that you always drink bottled
water.
Traditional Foods
Ecuador is known for its fabulous exotic fruits, high
quality fish and seafood, and the countless varieties
of Andean potatoes. Across the country you'll find
a broad spectrum of national and regional dishes,
including lemon-marinated shrimp, toasted corn, and
pastries stuffed with spiced meats. If you're feeling
courageous, you can put your culinary bravery to the
test with roasted cuy (guinea pig) or tronquito (bull
penis soup).
For those on a budget, the best way to stretch your
sucres is to take advantage of set plate meals, an
Ecuadorian institution in many restaurants. Lunches
(almuerzos) and dinners (meriendas) usually give you
a soup, main course (including meat), and dessert
for around USD 1.00. Vegetarian versions are often
available upon request.
At only pennies per bite, bakeries offer a delicious
range of breads, sweet pastries, and savory snacks,
such as empanadas (hot, crispy meat or cheese-filled
pastries) and llapingachos (potato and cheese pancakes).
Dishes sold in the street are also quite cheap, but
hygiene is often questionable, and you may quickly
surpass your intestinal limits. A good rule to follow
is the "locals rule" -- if the place is
frequented by many locals, the food probably merits
joining the crowd.
The regular diet of rice, potatoes, and meat (beef
and chicken everywhere, pork in the Sierra) is complimented
by another national culinary institution, aji (hot
sauce). Most Ecuadorian restaurants and homes have
their own version of aji, each with its own intensity
of "picante" (a word derived from the verb
to bite or to sting), so sample a bit before smothering
your food! If you don't see a little bowl of aji on
your table, just ask they´ve surely got it.
In addition to aji, basic dishes are usually accompanied
by the proverbial rice, small salad, and potatoes
or patacones (squashed, fried green bananas). On the
coast and in the Amazon, potatoes are often supplemented
or replaced by menestra (beans or lentils) or yuca.
Soups are without doubt Ecuador's specialty. Most
lunches and dinners are accompanied by a savory soup
as the first course. Locro soup, made with cheese,
avocado and potato, sounds a bit odd, but is actually
quite tasty. Chupe de pescado, a fish and vegetable
soup with coastal origins, is becoming popular throughout
the country. Bolder diners can try yaguarlocro, a
potato soup made with sprinkings of blood. Those ready
to throw their inhibitions completely to the wind
should dip their spoon into caldo de pata, a broth
containing chunks of boiled cow hooves, considered
a delicacy by locals and believed by hopeful men to
increase virility.
Other dishes found in your everyday restaurant or
home include: seco de pollo (stewed chicken accompanied
by rice and avocado slices); lomo salteado (thin beef
steak covered with onions and tomatoes); and seco
de chivo (goat stew served with a mound of rice. Tortillas
de maiz (thin corn pancakes) and choclo (barbecued
Andean corn) are sold by street vendors and make great
snacks any time of day.
If after your share of bull penis soup you find yourself
hankering for a familiar brand burger, burrito, or
pizza, don't panic -- the major cities feature (for
better or worse) the omnipresent American fast food
chains, such as Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, and Burger King.
Safety
Ecuador is considered one of the safer countries in
the Andean Region, though its recent economic woes
have caused crime to increase significantly. Ecuador's
urban centers, especially Quito and Guayaquil, are
generally more dangerous than the countryside. You
can drastically reduce the likelihood of being a crime
victim by following a few basic precautions:
- Travel with trustworthy companions. The old maxim
"safety in numbers" is worth more than
you know.
- Walk confidently with your head up. Never stare
at the ground, it makes you look nervous and weak.
- When you feel unsafe it's not paranoia, they're
instincts that developed for a reason. If you get
that feeling grab a taxi or go into a place with
lots of people.
- Find out where the unsafe sectors are and avoid
them.
- Be wary of people who are too friendly too quickly,
or that offer to show you around. Use your judgement
and don't worry about appearing rude.
- Keep all important documents in a secure place,
such as an inner pocket or a pouch that is hidden
under a layer of clothing.
- Carry travelers checks and credit cards instead
of large sums of cash. You can always get replacement
checks or cancel your cards but you can't get hard
currency back.
- Don't wear expensive jewelry or wristwatches.
They make you a target.
- Carry shoulder-bags and purses in front of you
to avoid having them snatched.
- Buy a cover for your backpack so that thieves
cannot easily slash it open.
- Keep all bags and other valuables where you can
see them in restaurants, train stations, and other
public places.
- Make copies of your important documents, card
numbers, etc., and give them to a trusted companion.
It's also a good idea to leave copies of important
documents and numbers with a relative at home, or
store them on password protected email account,
such as Yahoo or Hotmail, that you can access from
anywhere.
Changing Money & Checks
As a result of dollarization, we recommend more than
ever that you carry both US bills and traveler's checks
while in Ecuador. Other foreign currencies are difficult
to change outside of Quito, Cuenca, and Guayaquil.
In Quito, the stretch of Avenida Amazonas between
Patria and Veintimilla will cover most of your financial
needs. There is a wide range of banks, ATMs, casas
de cambio (money changing houses), and money transfer
facilities. In Guayaquil you will find a similar area
dedicated to financial services on the first few blocks
of Avenida 9 de Octubre near the waterfront.
Most banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am
to 6pm, and in Quito and Guayaquil a few stay open
until 8pm (in Quito Banco del Pinchincha on Amazonas
stays open until 8). Likewise, casas de cambio are
open Monday through Friday from 9 to 6. A few banks
and casas de cambio are also open on Saturday mornings.
Traveler's Checks
Traveler's checks are a great way to keep track of
your funds while away from home. Best of all, in the
event of loss or theft they are relatively easy to
replace, though some companies reimburse you faster
than others
Cash
While we recommend that you bring most of your money
in the form of traveler's checks, you should also
carry some cash, especially in out-of-the-way places
such as the Oriente or remote Andean or coastal villages.
Carry mostly USD 1, USD 5, and USD 10 bills, and make
sure they are in good condition or you will definitely
have trouble using them.
ATM Machines
ATM machines can be found at most major banks and,
in larger cities, in luxury hotels, malls, airports,
and along busy avenues and streets. For those travelers
coming from Europe, Australia, or the United States,
the system might not be as hassle-free as that to
which you are accustomed: machines tend to be offline
more frequently than those in other parts of the world,
charges on withdrawals from foreign banks can be rather
expensive, many machines won't accept PIN numbers
with more than four digits, and most rural areas and
smaller towns still lack ATM services altogether.
Credit Cards
VISA, Mastercard, American Express, and Diner's Club
are the most widely recognized cards in Ecuador (Diner's
Club is the most widely accepted card). Plastic is
useful for purchases in hotels, shops, restaurants,
and for cash advances from Automated Teller Machines
or banks..
Money Transfers
Most of Ecuador's urban areas have international money
transfer offices where you can pick up money sent
from abroad. Your credit card company may also be
able to make an emergency advance against your account
to one of these money transfer offices. Western Union
offices are found throughout Ecuador and American
Express, on Avenida Amazonas in Quito and 9 de Octubre
1600 in Guayaquil, offers limited transfers and a
check-cashing service to cardholders (up to USD 1000
dollars every 21 days).
Tipping
It is not customary to tip but gratuity is appreciated
for good service normally 10%
Health Precautions
If your trip to Ecuador includes visiting Andean areas
such as Quito. Cuenca or Cotopaxi don´t forget
to take precautions to avoid altitude sickness if
you are prone to it.
Be sure to try a hot tea or infusion on arrival in
the altitude, rest some few hours and eat lightly.
For easier altitude adjustment.Travelers with heart
conditions or high blood pressure should check with
their doctor before traveling to Cusco or other highland
cities.
Transportation
There are many taxis in Ecuador with very affordable
rates.
Before getting into a taxi, we recommend that you
inquire with the hotel concierge as to the approximate
charge for a certain route. The use of taximeters
is mandatory, however at nights and holidays the fee
is negotiable,you must clearly establish the rate
with your driver. If you are going to get a taxi on
the street, try to use the yellow taxicabs in which
the driver´s and car´s credentials are
visibly displayed inside the car.
Remenber to take low denomination coins with you to
pay for this service.
Telephone:
To call Ecuador from abroad you must dial the international
access code (011 in the United States) followed by
Ecuador's country code (593), followed by the city
code (listed below), and finally the number (seven
digits for calls to Quito, Guayaquil, and cell phone
numbers, and six digits for calls to the rest of Ecuador).*
The city/provincial codes for Ecuador are as follows:
Long distance telephone codes:
Ecuador> 593
Pinchincha (Quito)> 2
Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, Pastaza, Chimborazo, Bolívar>
3
Guayas (Guayaquil)> 4
Galápagos, Los Ríos, Manabí>
5
Carchi, Esmeraldas, Imbabura, Napo, Orellana, Sucumbíos>
6
Azuay (Cuenca), Cañar, El Oro, Loja, Morona,
Zamora> 7
All cellulars>9
Making Calls in Ecuador
In major cities, local calls can be made from sporadically
placed street phones, owned in large part by either
Bell South or Porta. A few coin operated phones may
still be found, but most pay-phones now operate on
debit cards that may be purchased from Bell South
and Porta stores and booths scattered about the larger
cities and in certain pharmacies and convenience stores.
Remember that, when making calls within Ecuador from
a pay phone, you must start by dialing 0, followed
by the two-digit city code (listed above), before
dialing the six- or seven-digit number.
It is also possible to make calls from tiendas (stores)
that lend phones to the public; prices vary according
to the owner's mood. The cheapest calls, whether local,
inter-provincial, or international, are made at the
offices of Andinatel (phone company). Fax service
is also available at Andinatel. Expect to stand in
line to use either of these services. Also, be prepared
for not-so-organized service and dog-eared out-of-date
phone books.
Collect Calls
Collect calls are possible to a limited number of
countries. In the Andinatel offices, the call will
be connected for you; from private phones you can
connect with an international operator by first dialing
999, then the appropriate country code: Argentina
(161) Brazil (177) Canada (175) Chile (179/166/168)
France (180) Great Britain (178) Spain (176) Switzerland
(160) USA (AT&T - 119, MCI - 170, Sprint - 171)
and Venezuela (173). For more collect call country
codes, look in the phone book or speak with an operator.
Net-to-Phone
Web-based phones like Net-Phone and dialpad.com are
revolutionizing international calls to the United
States. Though calling is currently limited to United
States, it will soon expand to Europe and other parts
of the world. Many of the Internet cafes (see the
Email section below) in Quito support Net-Phone. The
Internet cafes generally charge about 25 cents per
minute, this can add up but it's much cheaper than
calling with a calling card or collect. If you have
access to a private computer that has either a headset
or a microphone and speakers, you can also connect
to dialpad.com, where you can make unlimited calls
to the United States for free.
E-Mail
Internet cafes are becoming increasingly common throughout
Ecuador, especially in Quito. Internet Cafes pepper
the La Mariscal, Quito's main tourist and commercial
district.
The services in Quito range from basic dial-up connections
to top-of-the-line radio modems, offering additional
services from pool to full meals. Take a stroll through
La Mariscal or ask the hotel or hostel where you are
staying. Other travelers that have spent more than
a few days in Quito will also usually know where to
find Internet cafes.
Postal Services
Air mail services between Ecuador and the Americas/Europe
are generally quick and efficient. Postcards and air
mail letters to the US normally take between 7-10
days, and to Europe between 10 days and 2 weeks. When
posting airmail mark each one with POR AVION, otherwise
it may not arrive until well into the next century.
The postage on air mail letters (up to 20g) and postcards
sent to destinations within Ecuador costs thirty three
cents while the postage on those sent anywhere else
within the Americas and destinations worldwide is
seventy cents and eighty six cents, respectively.
Letters, greeting cards etc. cannot be sealed with
Scotch tape. Instead you must use gum/glue, normally
available in Correos (Post offices). Parcels can be
sealed before being taken to the Correo, where the
sender must complete a custom's declaration listing
contents and value. Parcel prices depend on weight
and destination. Two services are available: 4 week
delivery and a more expensive 2 week delivery.
Letters and postcards can be quickly mailed from
a number of hotels and shops in Quito as well as from
the most conveniently located correo in the new town,
on Reina Victoria and Colon.
Post Office Addresses in Quito:
- Reina Victoria and Colón (Edificio Torres
de Almagro):
Mon - Fri 0730 - 1745 Sat 0800 - 1145
- Espejo (between Guayaquil and Venezuela):
Mon - Fri 0730 - 1900 Sat 0800 - 1400
- Eloy Alfaro 354 and 9 de Octubre:
Mon - Fri 0730 -1900 Sat 0800 - 1400
- Japón and Naciones Unidas:
Mon - Fri 0730 - 1900 Sat 0800 - 1400
- Airport Mariscal Sucre (National Departures):
Mon - Fri 0730 - 1900 Sat 0800 - 1300
National Holidays
January 1 > New Year's Day*
January 6 > Three Kings Day (a.k.a. Epiphany)*
February 12 > Anniversary of the Discovery of
the Amazon River
February 12 > Province Day (Galápagos)
February 27 > National Community Spirit Day
March and/or April > Carnival* Easter and Holy
Week*
Carnival*
Celebrated just before Lent, Carnival is the ultimate
party in the Catholic nations of Latin American.
While not as extravagant in Ecuador as in other
Latin American countries, celebrations here include
waterfights and lavish parades. In Ecuador, Carnival
can best be enjoyed from Ambato, where the famous
fruit and flower parade takes place, or, due to
the waterfights, from any place warm. Although the
dates change annually according to the religious
calendar, Carnival is always celebrated as an extended
weekend prior to Ash Wednesday.
Easter and Holy Week*
Religious processions and an endless supply of fanesca
(a delicious, typical stew eaten throughout the
week) mark Palm Sunday, Holy Thursday, Good Friday,
Holy Saturday, and Easter Sunday. While Holy Saturday
is technically the only official holiday during
which stores ought to be closed, which businesses
are open for much of this week depends on the individual
merchant. Please be advised that beaches can get
packed during Holy Week.
May 1 > Labor Day*
Typical parades and processions fill the streets
of Ecuador as workers worldwide are honored.
May 24 > Battle of Pichincha*
Military and civilian parades show the nation's
pride of the day in 1822 when the country's most
important battle in the war for independence from
Spain was fought.
June > Corpus Cristi
Usually celebrated on the 9th Thursday after Easter,
this religious holiday/traditional harvest celebration
of the highlands includes ceremonies and dancing.
June 24 > Saint John the Baptist
Celebrations in Otavalo and the surrounding highland
communities.
June 29 > Saints Peter and Paul
Celebrations in Otavalo and the surrounding highland
communities.
July 24 > Simón Bolívar's Birthday*
A nationwide celebration of the birthday of South
America's greatest liberator.
July 25 > Founder's Day, Guayaquil
Guayaquil's biggest party is underway as the city
shuts down for two days to celebrate Simón
Bolívar's birthday and the foundation of
Ecuador's most populous city.
August 10 > Quito Independence Day*
September 23-24 > Our Lady of Mercy Festival (Latacunga)
Parades and parties follow religious processions.
Whether it's time to celebrate Carnival or a harvest
festival, the small towns of the highlands are the
place to be.
October 9 > Guayaquil Independence Day*
Once again, Guayaquil combines holidays (Independence
Day and Columbus Day) to ensure a multi-day festival.
October 12 > Columbus Day*
Also known as "Día de la Raza"
(Day of the Race), Columbus Day celebrates the day
in 1492 on which Christopher Columbus (Cristobal
Colón) first set foot on American soil in
what is now known as the Dominican Republic.
September 1-15 > Fiesta del Yamor
An annual festival in the highland town of Otavalo.
November 1 > All Saints' Day*
November 2 > All Soul's Day (a.k.a. "Day
of the Dead")*
All Soul's Day is a day during which families visit
cemeteries to dance, drink, eat, and leave flowers
and other offerings for deceased friends and relatives
in a convivial ceremony designed to celebrate the
lives of those who have past on.
November 3 > Cuenca Independence Day*
The culmination of three days of festivities, this
is the final day of Cuenca's biggest annual celebration.
November 11 > Latacunga Independence Day
December 6 > Founder's Day, Quito
The air in Quito takes on a more festive spirit
throughout the first week of December as Quiteños
take in bullfights, watch parades, attend street
dances, and ride around Quito atop Chivas (open-air
party buses complete with live music and drinks).
Also known as "Días de Quito" (Quito
Days), this week, in reality, is just the opening
act to a month-long gala for many.
December 24 > Christmas Eve*
December 25 > Christmas Day*
December 28-31 > Year's End Celebrations
Staring with the Day of the Innocents, the entire
nation symbolically prepares to enter a new year
by burning human figurines in the streets as Quiteños
end a nearly month-long party.
Ecuador’s Regions
La costa
Geography and Climate
Jungle, mangrove forests, quaint fishing villages,
and stunning beaches run the length of the more than
2,000 Kilometer expanse of Ecuadorian coast. Generally,
the region is warm and humid with temperatures averaging
25 degrees C (76 F) to 31 C (90 F). The rainy season,
from December to May, is warmer and down right muggy.
The dry season is less humid but by no means dry.
Four distinct provinces make up Ecuador's coastal
region: Esmeraldas, Manabí, Guayas, and El
Oro.
Esmeraldas, the "Green Province"
(excerpt from "Esmeraldas Province" page,
by Lexi Hazam with Francisco Mallinson)
In the northwestern corner of Ecuador, cultures with
roots spanning the globe come together amidst jungle,
river, and sea. This intriguing nexus of peoples and
ecosystems is the essence of the province of Esmeraldas,
and its primary allure for the visitor.
European feet first touched Ecuadorian soil here
when the Spanish landed on the Pacific coast in 1526.
The conquistadors were astounded to find Indians bedecked
in emeralds awaiting them on shore. Convinced that
the region was abundant in the brilliant gems, they
named it Esmeraldas.
While today's Esmeraldas harbors few emeralds, it
does live up to its other name, the "Green Province."
The northernmost of the coastal provinces, Esmeraldas
is also the lushest, riddled with estuaries, mangroves,
and flooded tropical forest. Its wild and remote inland
areas, accessible only by canoe, make Esmeraldas the
ideal staging ground for an epic river safari. Gliding
past frontier towns that suddenly appear out of the
dense green tangle of jungle, you will be reminded
of scenes from "The African Queen" and "Heart
of Darkness."
If you're not feeling up to an Indiana Jones impersonation
and would rather vegetate than hack through vegetation,
Esmeraldas also boasts some of the coast's most stunning
beaches, most bordered by small settlements subsisting
on the sea's harvest. The catch of the day, however,
is increasingly bound for a tourist's plate at one
of the province's oceanfront resorts, which range
from party-towns bringing in swarms of vacationers
to tranquil elite hideaways.
Manabí Province
South of Esmeraldas, rests the coastal province of
Manabí. The word "rests" may serve
to describe the location of Manabí, but it
does not function as an adjective for the area's character.
Manabí is "world famous" in Ecuador
for its late nights and beautiful people.
The beach cities along the Manabí coast are
very popular with Quiteños and Guayaquileños;
all summer long and during holidays, Ecuadorians head
to such beach towns as Puerto López, Montañita,
and Bahía de Caráquez, as well as Machalilla
National Park, with the near perfect beach of Los
Frailes - arguably the best on South America's Pacific
Coast - and plenty of wildlife.
Whale-watching, snorkeling, and margaritas on the
beach are just a few of the pursuits you can look
forward to while visiting the relatively undiscovered
province of Manabí.
The Central Coast
Montañita to Isla de la Plata (excerpt
from the "Montañita to Isla de la Plata"
page , by Sarah Lazarus)
The middle section of Ecuador's Pacific coastline
is an excellent place for a holiday. It features miles
of pristine beaches set in sweeping bays, lively fishing
villages and unique pre-Columbian archaeology. Ecuador's
"middle coast" is the southern portion of
Manabí and the northern part of the Guayas
Province.
Guayaquil and Southern Guayas Province
The Guayas Province is home to Guayaquil, Ecuador's
largest city and chief port. Guayaquil's Puerto Marítimo
opened in 1964 and now handles approximately 90% of
Ecuador's imports and nearly 50% of its exports. Known
more for its commercial prowess than as a vacation
spot, historically Guayaquil has not made it on many
tourists' itineraries. This being said, Guayaquil's
new Mayor is giving the City a facelift and is working
hard to make it both attractive and friendly to tourists.
One of the more ambitious elements of the Mayor's
plan is the renovation of Malecón Avenue. The
well known, riverside street now includes a number
of parks, restaurants, and a new theatre. In addition
to Malecón, the picturesque Las Peñas
district and the Plaza Centenario are worth a look.
These are just a few of the attractions that Guayquil
visitors should check out. Like Guayaquil, the Guayas
Province deserves more attention than it gets, especially
the beaches of Montañita, Punta Blanca, Playas
(General Villamil), and Puntas Arenas.
El Oro Province
El Oro stretches from Guayaquil to the Peruvian
border. Considered by many as nothing more than way
station between Ecuador and Peru, El Oro can surprise
those willing to spend a few days exploring it.
The thriving banana and shrimp producing city of
Machala divides El Oro's portion of coast in two.
While not a beautiful destination in itself, Machala
is a great jumping off point for exploring the mangrove
circled town of Puerto Bolívar, the markets
of Santa Rosa, and the delightful gold-mining community
of Zaruma.
On the Río Zarumilla, just across the border
from Peru, sits Huaquillas the main immigration point
between the two countries. Outside of its function
as a checkpoint and a shopping destination for Peruvian's
looking for bargains, Huaquillas offers travelers
little else.
If you slept on the bus all the way through El Oro,
do yourself a favor and take a day or two to wander
north before heading to Peru, you will be pleasantly
surprised by what you find
La Sierra
Not surprisingly, this region possesses Ecuador's
most developed tourist industry, providing a wide
range of accommodations, culinary options, shopping
opportunities, and cultural festivals, all easily
accessible from the capital of Quito. In addition
to Quito, Otavalo and Baños are considered
travelers' meccas, boasting an extensive infrastructure
supporting tourism. In these towns you can expect
a wide selection of restaurants, hotels and activities.
Choose a luxurious suite in a 400-year old hacienda,
or nestle down in a backpacker's $3 per night hostel.
Dine on veggie pizza one day and barbecued guinea
pig the next!
Quito
Most travelers arrive first in the capital of Quito,
often described as a city with a small town atmosphere
(although it is rapidly growing into a sprawling metropolis).
Once the capital of the northern Incan empire, Quito
is home to "Old Town", one of the most extensive
colonial districts in Latin America. Named a World
Heritage Site by the United Nations, Quito's Old Town
will transport you back and forth between centuries
as you meander down its cobblestone streets, passing
by vendors selling everything from choclo (Andean
corn) to ceramics to techno CDs.
Centrally located, Quito is also an excellent jumping-off
point for a number of interesting one and two-day
trips, including river-rafting, cloudforest exploration,
birding, mountain biking and hotsprings, and more.
Otavalo
Imbabura province, north of Quito, is famous for its
lakes, traditional adobe villages, indigenous communities
and native handicrafts. The town of Otavalo is home
to one of South America's most famed Indian market
-- a definite stop for most visitors. This open-air
extravaganza overflows with a wide variety of handicrafts,
as well as llamas, hand-woven sweaters and bags of
potatoes, all piled high and wide and sold side by
side.
Surrounding Otavalo are a handful of well-preserved
haciendas, a number of which now operate as B&Bs.
Horseback riding programs home-based at these haciendas
have recently become a popular way to experience the
highlands. Two hours north of Otavalo is the Guandera
Reserve, a spectacular sliver of Andean cloudforest
and paramo, near the Colombian border.
Ibarra and the San Lorenzo Train
Ibarra, Imbabura's provincial capital, is
also known as the White City due to its colonial whitewashed
buildings, cobblestone streets and red-tiled roofs.
Horse-drawn carts clattering down the streets add
to the historic ambiance. Most travelers come to Ibarra
to hop aboard the train which rolls its way down from
the Andes to the coastal town of San Lorenzo, 193
miles away (Service at this point is intermittent.
Check with our transportation section for more details).
Mitad del Mundo
Just north of Quito, you'll find the Mitad del Mundo,
a monument marking the equator, is a convenient half
hour from central Quito. It includes a museum with
informative displays on Ecuador's four regions and
ethnic groups. Don't miss the opportunity to place
one foot in each hemisphere!
Avenue of the Volcanoes and Cotopaxi National
Park
An hour and a half from Quito, along the Avenue of
the Volcanoes, lies the dominant image on the Ecuadorian
national psyche: the perfectly conical Cotopaxi volcano
(5897m), one of the world's highest active volcanos.
Most visitors with a bit of verve at least contemplate
making the ascent to its 19,890 foot peak. The volcano
is the highlight of Cotopaxi National Park, which
straddles a number of provinces and protects a wide
swath of Andean paramo, the Ecuadorian equivalent
of the Arctic tundra, and homeland to the Andean condor
and paramo fox.
Latacunga Loop
Just down the "Avenue of The Volcanoes",
is the Latacunga Loop, a spectacular area for Andean
trekking and getting-off-the beaten path. Adventurous
trekkers who make the effort will be treated to incredible
vistas, unequalled mountain hospitality, and the possibility
of a spontaneous encounter with a llama herder or
a gaggle of giggly pigtailed indigenous girls.
Traveling on these scenic back roads you can Visit
Zumbahua's colorful Saturday morning market and see
loads of llamas. Stop by Laguna Quilotoa, an emerald
volcanic crater lake located high in the paramo at
3800 meters, and buy some Naif or primitive paintings
from the indigenous artists. Completing the loop will
take you through Chugchilan and the Rio Toachi Canyon
system. Visit a European-style cheese factory high
in the paramo or enter the Cloud Forest of the Iliniza
Ecological Reserve. On Thursdays, don't miss one of
the Sierra's most important markets in Saquisili.
The Latacunga Loop gives visitors an authentic taste
of the Ecuadorian highlands. Accomodations on the
loop are available in Latacunga, Pujili, Zumbahua,
Quilotoa, Chugchilan, Sigchos, and Saquisili. The
trip can easily be broken up into two or three days.
Tungurahua Province
Tungurahua Province is famous for the Pujili and Salasaca
Indian markets, where pre-Incan, Incan, Spanish and
modern designs decorate the sides of ceramic bowls
and tapestries. For the intrepid traveler, high and
mighty Tungurahua volcano also beckons; the 5016 meter
volcano has an illustrious and fiery past (just ask
the locals), and is climb-worthy for those seeking
a physical challenge.
Baños
After a long day of bargaining or climbing, you can
unwind in the nearby hotspring baths of Baños,
a town situated in a valley of eternal spring. Baños
is also one of the gateways to the Amazon -- albeit
down a hairsplitting eye-popping road. Also easily
accessed from Baños is Riobamba, the starting
point of the exhilarating train ride down the "Devil's
Nose". Thrill-seekers can ride rooftop, which
is the ideal place to watch the bucolic landscape
roll by.
See the Baños page for more details.
Chimborazo
Ecuador's tallest volcano, Chimborazo (6,310 meters),
embraces in its surroundings centuries-old indigenous
communities that have maintained many of their ancient
traditions. This cloud-piercing volcano also provides
experienced climbers with a challenge requiring crampons
and ice axes. Those who succeed in conquering the
peak will be rewarded with out-of-this-world views
from the summit.
Cuenca
Not many tourists venture farther south, but those
who do delight in exploring Azuay and Loja provinces,
known for their hospitality, unique cuisine, and charming
pueblos nestled between the softened folds of the
Andes. In Cuenca, Ecuador's third largest city, you
can stroll the well-preserved colonial streets, trek
through undulating countryside, and visit the nearby
Incan ruins of Ingapirca.
Vilcabamba and Podocarpus National Park
In Loja visitors will find a splendid natural
landscape. Vilcabamba, known for the longevity of
its inhabitants, is a place for travelers who want
to slow down and watch the flowers grow. A number
of resorts catering to the backpack traveler (and
others) offer therapeutic spa-like facilities. From
Vilcabamba, it is possible to access Podocarpus National
Park, an extraordinary collection of ecosystems ranging
from paramo to endemic Podocarpus forests to rainforest
(excellent for birding).
El Oriente
Welcome to the Amazon Basin, the world's largest
remaining tropical rainforest. More life hums, buzzes,
chatters and bubbles here than anywhere else on the
planet. One Amazonian tree can host more ant species
than all of the British Isles put together, one hectare
of forest boasts about as many frog species as all
of North America, and the great expanse of the jungle
contains more than twenty percent of the earth's vascular
plant species. Here you can find a monkey small enough
to sit on your fingertip, an eight pound toad, a spider
that eats birds, and the world's largest snake, the
30-foot anaconda.
Moreover, forty percent of all of all the earth's
fresh water flows through the Amazon basin; more water
than in the basins of the next six biggest rivers
combined! In the Amazon river there are islands as
big as Switzerland and otters bigger than men, and
at certain points along it you can be in the middle
and see neither shore. It snakes and swivels thousands
of miles and draws in water from over 1500 water sources,
including the Rio Napo in Ecuador, one of its primary
tributaries plants are found in this equatorial swath
of green.
This rainforest is home to thousands of indigenous
inhabitants, who make up nearly 200 distinct nations,
including the Siona, Secoya, Cofan, Shuar, Zaparo,
Huaorani, and Quichua. The indigenous tribes that
live in Ecuador's rainforest are the ancient keepers
and guardians of the world's biological heritage -
having lived there for more than 10,000 years, they
know its trees, its animals, and its rhythms better
than anyone.
From the Amazon come some of our favorite foods:
avocado, black pepper, Brazil nuts, cayenne pepper,
cashews, chocolate (cacao), cinnamon, eggplant, figs,
ginger, sugarcane, vanilla, and yams. The rainforest
also produces many medicines, such as quinine for
malaria; curare for multiple sclerosis and Parkinson's
disease; as well as many industrial products, including
latex, resins, timber, oil, and other minerals.
Ecuador, with its 2% share of the Amazon (know as
the Oriente), provides unparalleled opportunities
for experiencing the magic of the rainforest. Not
only does it have one of the world's best developed
infrastructures for rainforest tourism, but most destinations
are accessible within a day's journey from Quito,
including:
- Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve
- Huaorani Protectorate
- Upper Napo
- Yasuní National Park
Whether you are looking for a luxury lodge with three-course
meals and hot showers, a mud-up-to-your-knees trekking
and camping adventure, or something in between, Ecuador
has a program to meet your needs.
Tour the Amazon with one of our recommended rainforest
tour operators.
You can learn more about indigenous forest peoples
and the rainforest itself by joining one of the many
community-based ecotourism programs offered in the
Ecuadorian Amazon or by becoming a volunteer with
one of the many non-profits working in the region.
Galapagos
On land and in the sea, the Galapagos Islands give
the impression of a diabolic Garden of Eden. The islands'
tumultuous volcanic history of scorched earth and
fiery flows are evident the moment you arrive. Inhospitable.
Uninhabitable. Tortured. These are the adjectives
inspired by the lava-sea-scape.
But look closer... this seemingly spartan landscape
is in fact teeming with life; the first of the Galapagos'
many contradictions. Suddenly you realize that what
you thought was a rock is in fact a sun-seeking iguana!
And to add to your surprise, it doesn't seem the least
bit perturbed by your intrusive gaze... another Galapagos
contradiction.
When Charles Darwin (the guy with the Beagle) arrived
to the islands in 1835 he admitted to being a bit
tormented by the thousands of iguanas laying about:
"One doesn't get used to their hideous appearance,
one is never entirely free of a sense of unease.
Some say they look like guardians of Hell or condemned
spirits or dragon spawn."
-Charles Darwin
The creatures of the Galapagos are survivors of
a tortured landscape, an otherworldly archipelago
nine-hundred miles out at sea. And because of their
long history of isolation from Homo Sapiens, both
land and sea animals remain virtually fearless and
unaffected by visitors. As a visitor to the Galapagos,
you will swim goggles to whiskers with sea lion pups,
penguins, and sea rays, in addition to turtles and
tropical reef fish. On land you will find yourself
sidestepping over hundreds of Darwin's dragon spawn,
as well as nesting blue-footed boobies, sea lions,
and scuttling Sally Lightfoot crabs.
The islands are fortuitously positioned at the confluence
of three distinct oceanic currents, creating a sea
of contradictions, as well as one of the highest levels
of marine endemism anywhere in the world: nearly one
in four species is unique to the islands.
In the Galapagos, expect the unexpected:
Penguins swim through mangroves in the company of
rainbow-colored reef fish, while whale sharks and
schools of hammerheads circle in the same waters as
the Moorish idol.
In 1934 the Ecuadorian government, in collaboration
with the Charles Darwin Research Station, had the
foresight to set aside a number of wildlife sanctuaries
on the islands before finally declaring the Galapagos
a national park in 1959. About 90% of the island territory
is now protected and, thankfully, carefully managed.
As a result, the park service only allows visits to
about 50 sites, in addition to the islands' few towns.
Rest assured that although most of the park is off
limits, the sites available to visitors are among
the most interesting: You won't be disappointed.
How to Island Hop
The most popular way to see the islands is by live-aboard
yacht tours although land-based and scuba diving tours
are also offered. Due to the increasing popularity
of the Galapagos, a variety of boats are available
for cruises, ranging from rickety sloops, to luxury
air-conditioned sailing yachts, to mid-sized cruise
ships.
Most of the boats share similar itineraries, so boat
quality, price, crew and trip length are often more
important considerations when booking a trip. Voyages
vary in length from four to fifteen days.
One of the primary differences between the varying
boat classes, besides the comfort of their accommodations,
is the experience of the crew and naturalist guides.
Top-end boats have top-end staff. Boats in the midrange
category of superior tourist class (and up) have bilingual
naturalist guides, usually with a university degree.
(In the Galapagos, the adage, "what you pay for
is what you get" couldn't be truer).
To get the most of your Galapagos travels at least
6 days are recommended. Bear in mind that, the shorter
the trip, the less you will see -- and there are a
number of "don't miss" islands such as:
- Española (natural wonder after natural
wonder, from the immense blow hole, to the thousands
of nesting blue-footed boobies, to the world's largest
waved albatross colony);
- Floreana (Devil's Crown, flamingos, Flour beach
and one notorious witch); Bartolome (spectacular
views); and
- Black Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz (mangrove maze
chock full of sharks, rays and sea turtles).
Most landings are by panga (dinghy) onto sandy or
rocky beaches; so be prepared for what are known as
wet landings and dry landings. Wet landings require
you to wade to shore in up to knee-deep water, while
dry landings are made along rocky outcroppings, and
require a bit of agile grace to avoid turning a dry
landing into a wet one (watch-out for slippery seaweed!).
In addition to naturalist-guided tours on land, you
will have plenty of time for underwater frolic with
your snorkel, flippers and mask -- and the local sea
lion contingent.
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