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About Ecuador

FACTS

Area
283.250 Sq Km ( 175.780 Sq Miles)
Population
12.900.000
Capital
Quito - 1.800.000
Religion
95% Roman Catholic
Language
Spanish. Also Quechua.
Literacy
92.8%
Life expectancy
72 years
GDP per capita
$1,080
 


The Land

Straddling the equator in western South America, Ecuador has territories in both the Northern and the Southern hemispheres. It borders Colombia to the north and shares a border Peru to the south and to the east. The Pacific Ocean is Ecuador’s western border. Ecuador, 256,370 square kilometers 175.size. Despite Ecuador's diminutive size - about equal to the North American state of Colorado - it is one of the most geographically diverse countries in the world. Ecuador is comprised of four distinct geographical regions: El Oriente (Amazon jungle) in the east, La Sierra (Andes mountains) in the center, La Costa (the Pacific coastal lowlands) in the west, and the majestic Galapagos Islands off the coast. Ecuador is politically split into 22 provinces

The central portion of Ecuador includes the great mountain and plateau region of the Andes, where a number of peaks rise to more than 20,000 feet. The major cities are: Guayaquil (2.200.000). Quito,( 1.800.000) Cuenca.(700.000)

The People

Ecuador's population is estimated to be 12,900.00, with a less than 2% annual growth rate. The population is ethnically mixed: 45% mestizo (mixed indigenous - Caucasian), 35% Indigenous, 10% Caucasian, 10% African.
Local Time

Eastern Standard on GMT-5 (same as New York, except during daylight savings months when Ecuador is one hour behind). The Galapagos are one hour ahead of the mainland.

Climate and Clothing

Due to geographic differences in altitude, longitude and latitude, and the climatic effects of the Pacific Ocean, it is an excellent travel destination year-round. La Costa's (Coastal lowlands) climate is usually very warm with temperatures averaging 25 degrees C (76 F) to 31 C (90 F) during the year. The rainy season (December to May) is warm and very humid. The dry season is less humid but still a little muggy.

La Sierra (Andean Highlands),, on the other hand, has a rainy, cold climate from November to April and a dry one from May to October. The climate in the Andes varies according to the altitude and the time of the year. In Quito the temperature ranges from 7 degrees C (55 F) at night, to 26 C (78 F) at noon, averaging 15 C (64 F).

El Oriente (Amazon region) normally has a warm, humid and rainy climate. The average temperature varies from 23 to 26 oC (72 to 80 F). The drier season is generally November to February but varies by region.

The Galapagos islands enjoy a warm and dry weather with a temperate climate with temperatures ranging between 22 and 32 degrees centigrade.

The Language

Spanish is the official language, numerous indigenous tongues. Quichua, the language of the Incas, is the most widely spoken indigenous language. English is commonly spoken among professionals and tourism providers

Entry Requirements

Ecuador requires a valid passport from all travelers, as well as proof of return to your home country or onward journey, though this is rarely checked. At this time no yellow fever vaccination is required.

Passports

Always carry your passport (or an official copy, see below) while traveling in Ecuador, as military and police checks are semi-frequent and not pretty if you are caught without your documents. However, if you are staying in Quito, Guayaquil or another large city for an extended period, it is advisable that you carry only a copy of your passport. For a reasonable fee most foreign embassies provide their citizens with an "official" copy of their passport that is recognized by Ecuadorian law.

Entry Documents

Citizens of most nations can stay in Ecuador for up to 180 days per year. Immigration officials will stamp either 60 or 90 days in your passport when you enter. If you know you need more than 60 days, be sure to tell them before they stamp your passport.

Currency

On September 13, 2000, Ecuador completed its dollarization process; the sucre was eliminated, at least theoretically, and the country's currency was legally changed to the US dollar.

Electricity

Electric appliances operate on an alternating current, the same as the United States - 110 volts, 60 cycles (Hertz) AC. This means that European travelers need to bring an adapter for laptops, cameras, hair dryers, etc., that they bring with them.

Airport Departure Tax

USD 25 dollars is charged upon leaving Ecuador via an international flight.

Health

Yellow fever vaccination certificate is required for visits to the amazon rainforest area.
No inoculations are required for entry (except if visiting the amazon area where yellow fever vaccination is required), but travelers with heart conditions or high blood pressure should check with their family doctor about high-altitude travel, if they will be visiting the highlands. Drink bottled water throughout the country.

General Information

Food and Water
The tap water in most of Ecuador is potable, but the chemical content varies from place to place. To avoid problems, we recommend that you always drink bottled water.

Traditional Foods
Ecuador is known for its fabulous exotic fruits, high quality fish and seafood, and the countless varieties of Andean potatoes. Across the country you'll find a broad spectrum of national and regional dishes, including lemon-marinated shrimp, toasted corn, and pastries stuffed with spiced meats. If you're feeling courageous, you can put your culinary bravery to the test with roasted cuy (guinea pig) or tronquito (bull penis soup).

For those on a budget, the best way to stretch your sucres is to take advantage of set plate meals, an Ecuadorian institution in many restaurants. Lunches (almuerzos) and dinners (meriendas) usually give you a soup, main course (including meat), and dessert for around USD 1.00. Vegetarian versions are often available upon request.

At only pennies per bite, bakeries offer a delicious range of breads, sweet pastries, and savory snacks, such as empanadas (hot, crispy meat or cheese-filled pastries) and llapingachos (potato and cheese pancakes). Dishes sold in the street are also quite cheap, but hygiene is often questionable, and you may quickly surpass your intestinal limits. A good rule to follow is the "locals rule" -- if the place is frequented by many locals, the food probably merits joining the crowd.

The regular diet of rice, potatoes, and meat (beef and chicken everywhere, pork in the Sierra) is complimented by another national culinary institution, aji (hot sauce). Most Ecuadorian restaurants and homes have their own version of aji, each with its own intensity of "picante" (a word derived from the verb to bite or to sting), so sample a bit before smothering your food! If you don't see a little bowl of aji on your table, just ask they´ve surely got it. In addition to aji, basic dishes are usually accompanied by the proverbial rice, small salad, and potatoes or patacones (squashed, fried green bananas). On the coast and in the Amazon, potatoes are often supplemented or replaced by menestra (beans or lentils) or yuca.

Soups are without doubt Ecuador's specialty. Most lunches and dinners are accompanied by a savory soup as the first course. Locro soup, made with cheese, avocado and potato, sounds a bit odd, but is actually quite tasty. Chupe de pescado, a fish and vegetable soup with coastal origins, is becoming popular throughout the country. Bolder diners can try yaguarlocro, a potato soup made with sprinkings of blood. Those ready to throw their inhibitions completely to the wind should dip their spoon into caldo de pata, a broth containing chunks of boiled cow hooves, considered a delicacy by locals and believed by hopeful men to increase virility.

Other dishes found in your everyday restaurant or home include: seco de pollo (stewed chicken accompanied by rice and avocado slices); lomo salteado (thin beef steak covered with onions and tomatoes); and seco de chivo (goat stew served with a mound of rice. Tortillas de maiz (thin corn pancakes) and choclo (barbecued Andean corn) are sold by street vendors and make great snacks any time of day.

If after your share of bull penis soup you find yourself hankering for a familiar brand burger, burrito, or pizza, don't panic -- the major cities feature (for better or worse) the omnipresent American fast food chains, such as Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, and Burger King.

Safety
Ecuador is considered one of the safer countries in the Andean Region, though its recent economic woes have caused crime to increase significantly. Ecuador's urban centers, especially Quito and Guayaquil, are generally more dangerous than the countryside. You can drastically reduce the likelihood of being a crime victim by following a few basic precautions:

  • Travel with trustworthy companions. The old maxim "safety in numbers" is worth more than you know.
  • Walk confidently with your head up. Never stare at the ground, it makes you look nervous and weak.
  • When you feel unsafe it's not paranoia, they're instincts that developed for a reason. If you get that feeling grab a taxi or go into a place with lots of people.
  • Find out where the unsafe sectors are and avoid them.
  • Be wary of people who are too friendly too quickly, or that offer to show you around. Use your judgement and don't worry about appearing rude.
  • Keep all important documents in a secure place, such as an inner pocket or a pouch that is hidden under a layer of clothing.
  • Carry travelers checks and credit cards instead of large sums of cash. You can always get replacement checks or cancel your cards but you can't get hard currency back.
  • Don't wear expensive jewelry or wristwatches. They make you a target.
  • Carry shoulder-bags and purses in front of you to avoid having them snatched.
  • Buy a cover for your backpack so that thieves cannot easily slash it open.
  • Keep all bags and other valuables where you can see them in restaurants, train stations, and other public places.
  • Make copies of your important documents, card numbers, etc., and give them to a trusted companion. It's also a good idea to leave copies of important documents and numbers with a relative at home, or store them on password protected email account, such as Yahoo or Hotmail, that you can access from anywhere.

Changing Money & Checks

As a result of dollarization, we recommend more than ever that you carry both US bills and traveler's checks while in Ecuador. Other foreign currencies are difficult to change outside of Quito, Cuenca, and Guayaquil.

In Quito, the stretch of Avenida Amazonas between Patria and Veintimilla will cover most of your financial needs. There is a wide range of banks, ATMs, casas de cambio (money changing houses), and money transfer facilities. In Guayaquil you will find a similar area dedicated to financial services on the first few blocks of Avenida 9 de Octubre near the waterfront.

Most banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm, and in Quito and Guayaquil a few stay open until 8pm (in Quito Banco del Pinchincha on Amazonas stays open until 8). Likewise, casas de cambio are open Monday through Friday from 9 to 6. A few banks and casas de cambio are also open on Saturday mornings.

Traveler's Checks
Traveler's checks are a great way to keep track of your funds while away from home. Best of all, in the event of loss or theft they are relatively easy to replace, though some companies reimburse you faster than others
Cash

While we recommend that you bring most of your money in the form of traveler's checks, you should also carry some cash, especially in out-of-the-way places such as the Oriente or remote Andean or coastal villages. Carry mostly USD 1, USD 5, and USD 10 bills, and make sure they are in good condition or you will definitely have trouble using them.

ATM Machines
ATM machines can be found at most major banks and, in larger cities, in luxury hotels, malls, airports, and along busy avenues and streets. For those travelers coming from Europe, Australia, or the United States, the system might not be as hassle-free as that to which you are accustomed: machines tend to be offline more frequently than those in other parts of the world, charges on withdrawals from foreign banks can be rather expensive, many machines won't accept PIN numbers with more than four digits, and most rural areas and smaller towns still lack ATM services altogether.

Credit Cards
VISA, Mastercard, American Express, and Diner's Club are the most widely recognized cards in Ecuador (Diner's Club is the most widely accepted card). Plastic is useful for purchases in hotels, shops, restaurants, and for cash advances from Automated Teller Machines or banks..

Money Transfers
Most of Ecuador's urban areas have international money transfer offices where you can pick up money sent from abroad. Your credit card company may also be able to make an emergency advance against your account to one of these money transfer offices. Western Union offices are found throughout Ecuador and American Express, on Avenida Amazonas in Quito and 9 de Octubre 1600 in Guayaquil, offers limited transfers and a check-cashing service to cardholders (up to USD 1000 dollars every 21 days).

Tipping
It is not customary to tip but gratuity is appreciated for good service normally 10%

Health Precautions
If your trip to Ecuador includes visiting Andean areas such as Quito. Cuenca or Cotopaxi don´t forget to take precautions to avoid altitude sickness if you are prone to it.
Be sure to try a hot tea or infusion on arrival in the altitude, rest some few hours and eat lightly. For easier altitude adjustment.Travelers with heart conditions or high blood pressure should check with their doctor before traveling to Cusco or other highland cities.

Transportation

There are many taxis in Ecuador with very affordable rates.
Before getting into a taxi, we recommend that you inquire with the hotel concierge as to the approximate charge for a certain route. The use of taximeters is mandatory, however at nights and holidays the fee is negotiable,you must clearly establish the rate with your driver. If you are going to get a taxi on the street, try to use the yellow taxicabs in which the driver´s and car´s credentials are visibly displayed inside the car.
Remenber to take low denomination coins with you to pay for this service.

Telephone:

To call Ecuador from abroad you must dial the international access code (011 in the United States) followed by Ecuador's country code (593), followed by the city code (listed below), and finally the number (seven digits for calls to Quito, Guayaquil, and cell phone numbers, and six digits for calls to the rest of Ecuador).*

The city/provincial codes for Ecuador are as follows:

Long distance telephone codes:
Ecuador> 593
Pinchincha (Quito)> 2
Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, Pastaza, Chimborazo, Bolívar> 3
Guayas (Guayaquil)> 4
Galápagos, Los Ríos, Manabí> 5
Carchi, Esmeraldas, Imbabura, Napo, Orellana, Sucumbíos> 6
Azuay (Cuenca), Cañar, El Oro, Loja, Morona, Zamora> 7
All cellulars>9

Making Calls in Ecuador
In major cities, local calls can be made from sporadically placed street phones, owned in large part by either Bell South or Porta. A few coin operated phones may still be found, but most pay-phones now operate on debit cards that may be purchased from Bell South and Porta stores and booths scattered about the larger cities and in certain pharmacies and convenience stores. Remember that, when making calls within Ecuador from a pay phone, you must start by dialing 0, followed by the two-digit city code (listed above), before dialing the six- or seven-digit number.

It is also possible to make calls from tiendas (stores) that lend phones to the public; prices vary according to the owner's mood. The cheapest calls, whether local, inter-provincial, or international, are made at the offices of Andinatel (phone company). Fax service is also available at Andinatel. Expect to stand in line to use either of these services. Also, be prepared for not-so-organized service and dog-eared out-of-date phone books.

Collect Calls
Collect calls are possible to a limited number of countries. In the Andinatel offices, the call will be connected for you; from private phones you can connect with an international operator by first dialing 999, then the appropriate country code: Argentina (161) Brazil (177) Canada (175) Chile (179/166/168) France (180) Great Britain (178) Spain (176) Switzerland (160) USA (AT&T - 119, MCI - 170, Sprint - 171) and Venezuela (173). For more collect call country codes, look in the phone book or speak with an operator.

Net-to-Phone
Web-based phones like Net-Phone and dialpad.com are revolutionizing international calls to the United States. Though calling is currently limited to United States, it will soon expand to Europe and other parts of the world. Many of the Internet cafes (see the Email section below) in Quito support Net-Phone. The Internet cafes generally charge about 25 cents per minute, this can add up but it's much cheaper than calling with a calling card or collect. If you have access to a private computer that has either a headset or a microphone and speakers, you can also connect to dialpad.com, where you can make unlimited calls to the United States for free.

E-Mail
Internet cafes are becoming increasingly common throughout Ecuador, especially in Quito. Internet Cafes pepper the La Mariscal, Quito's main tourist and commercial district.
The services in Quito range from basic dial-up connections to top-of-the-line radio modems, offering additional services from pool to full meals. Take a stroll through La Mariscal or ask the hotel or hostel where you are staying. Other travelers that have spent more than a few days in Quito will also usually know where to find Internet cafes.

Postal Services
Air mail services between Ecuador and the Americas/Europe are generally quick and efficient. Postcards and air mail letters to the US normally take between 7-10 days, and to Europe between 10 days and 2 weeks. When posting airmail mark each one with POR AVION, otherwise it may not arrive until well into the next century.

The postage on air mail letters (up to 20g) and postcards sent to destinations within Ecuador costs thirty three cents while the postage on those sent anywhere else within the Americas and destinations worldwide is seventy cents and eighty six cents, respectively. Letters, greeting cards etc. cannot be sealed with Scotch tape. Instead you must use gum/glue, normally available in Correos (Post offices). Parcels can be sealed before being taken to the Correo, where the sender must complete a custom's declaration listing contents and value. Parcel prices depend on weight and destination. Two services are available: 4 week delivery and a more expensive 2 week delivery.

Letters and postcards can be quickly mailed from a number of hotels and shops in Quito as well as from the most conveniently located correo in the new town, on Reina Victoria and Colon.

Post Office Addresses in Quito:

  • Reina Victoria and Colón (Edificio Torres de Almagro):
    Mon - Fri 0730 - 1745 Sat 0800 - 1145
  • Espejo (between Guayaquil and Venezuela):
    Mon - Fri 0730 - 1900 Sat 0800 - 1400
  • Eloy Alfaro 354 and 9 de Octubre:
    Mon - Fri 0730 -1900 Sat 0800 - 1400
  • Japón and Naciones Unidas:
    Mon - Fri 0730 - 1900 Sat 0800 - 1400
  • Airport Mariscal Sucre (National Departures):
    Mon - Fri 0730 - 1900 Sat 0800 - 1300

 

National Holidays

January 1 > New Year's Day*

January 6 > Three Kings Day (a.k.a. Epiphany)*

February 12 > Anniversary of the Discovery of the Amazon River

February 12 > Province Day (Galápagos)

February 27 > National Community Spirit Day

March and/or April > Carnival* Easter and Holy Week*

Carnival*
Celebrated just before Lent, Carnival is the ultimate party in the Catholic nations of Latin American. While not as extravagant in Ecuador as in other Latin American countries, celebrations here include waterfights and lavish parades. In Ecuador, Carnival can best be enjoyed from Ambato, where the famous fruit and flower parade takes place, or, due to the waterfights, from any place warm. Although the dates change annually according to the religious calendar, Carnival is always celebrated as an extended weekend prior to Ash Wednesday.

Easter and Holy Week*
Religious processions and an endless supply of fanesca (a delicious, typical stew eaten throughout the week) mark Palm Sunday, Holy Thursday, Good Friday, Holy Saturday, and Easter Sunday. While Holy Saturday is technically the only official holiday during which stores ought to be closed, which businesses are open for much of this week depends on the individual merchant. Please be advised that beaches can get packed during Holy Week.

May 1 > Labor Day*

Typical parades and processions fill the streets of Ecuador as workers worldwide are honored.

May 24 > Battle of Pichincha*

Military and civilian parades show the nation's pride of the day in 1822 when the country's most important battle in the war for independence from Spain was fought.

June > Corpus Cristi

Usually celebrated on the 9th Thursday after Easter, this religious holiday/traditional harvest celebration of the highlands includes ceremonies and dancing.

June 24 > Saint John the Baptist

Celebrations in Otavalo and the surrounding highland communities.

June 29 > Saints Peter and Paul

Celebrations in Otavalo and the surrounding highland communities.

July 24 > Simón Bolívar's Birthday*

A nationwide celebration of the birthday of South America's greatest liberator.

July 25 > Founder's Day, Guayaquil

Guayaquil's biggest party is underway as the city shuts down for two days to celebrate Simón Bolívar's birthday and the foundation of Ecuador's most populous city.

August 10 > Quito Independence Day*

September 23-24 > Our Lady of Mercy Festival (Latacunga)

Parades and parties follow religious processions. Whether it's time to celebrate Carnival or a harvest festival, the small towns of the highlands are the place to be.

October 9 > Guayaquil Independence Day*

Once again, Guayaquil combines holidays (Independence Day and Columbus Day) to ensure a multi-day festival.

October 12 > Columbus Day*

Also known as "Día de la Raza" (Day of the Race), Columbus Day celebrates the day in 1492 on which Christopher Columbus (Cristobal Colón) first set foot on American soil in what is now known as the Dominican Republic.

September 1-15 > Fiesta del Yamor

An annual festival in the highland town of Otavalo.

November 1 > All Saints' Day*

November 2 > All Soul's Day (a.k.a. "Day of the Dead")*

All Soul's Day is a day during which families visit cemeteries to dance, drink, eat, and leave flowers and other offerings for deceased friends and relatives in a convivial ceremony designed to celebrate the lives of those who have past on.

November 3 > Cuenca Independence Day*

The culmination of three days of festivities, this is the final day of Cuenca's biggest annual celebration.

November 11 > Latacunga Independence Day

December 6 > Founder's Day, Quito

The air in Quito takes on a more festive spirit throughout the first week of December as Quiteños take in bullfights, watch parades, attend street dances, and ride around Quito atop Chivas (open-air party buses complete with live music and drinks). Also known as "Días de Quito" (Quito Days), this week, in reality, is just the opening act to a month-long gala for many.

December 24 > Christmas Eve*

December 25 > Christmas Day*

December 28-31 > Year's End Celebrations

Staring with the Day of the Innocents, the entire nation symbolically prepares to enter a new year by burning human figurines in the streets as Quiteños end a nearly month-long party.

 

Ecuador’s Regions

La costa

Geography and Climate
Jungle, mangrove forests, quaint fishing villages, and stunning beaches run the length of the more than 2,000 Kilometer expanse of Ecuadorian coast. Generally, the region is warm and humid with temperatures averaging 25 degrees C (76 F) to 31 C (90 F). The rainy season, from December to May, is warmer and down right muggy. The dry season is less humid but by no means dry. Four distinct provinces make up Ecuador's coastal region: Esmeraldas, Manabí, Guayas, and El Oro.

Esmeraldas, the "Green Province" (excerpt from "Esmeraldas Province" page, by Lexi Hazam with Francisco Mallinson)

In the northwestern corner of Ecuador, cultures with roots spanning the globe come together amidst jungle, river, and sea. This intriguing nexus of peoples and ecosystems is the essence of the province of Esmeraldas, and its primary allure for the visitor.

European feet first touched Ecuadorian soil here when the Spanish landed on the Pacific coast in 1526. The conquistadors were astounded to find Indians bedecked in emeralds awaiting them on shore. Convinced that the region was abundant in the brilliant gems, they named it Esmeraldas.

While today's Esmeraldas harbors few emeralds, it does live up to its other name, the "Green Province." The northernmost of the coastal provinces, Esmeraldas is also the lushest, riddled with estuaries, mangroves, and flooded tropical forest. Its wild and remote inland areas, accessible only by canoe, make Esmeraldas the ideal staging ground for an epic river safari. Gliding past frontier towns that suddenly appear out of the dense green tangle of jungle, you will be reminded of scenes from "The African Queen" and "Heart of Darkness."

If you're not feeling up to an Indiana Jones impersonation and would rather vegetate than hack through vegetation, Esmeraldas also boasts some of the coast's most stunning beaches, most bordered by small settlements subsisting on the sea's harvest. The catch of the day, however, is increasingly bound for a tourist's plate at one of the province's oceanfront resorts, which range from party-towns bringing in swarms of vacationers to tranquil elite hideaways.

Manabí Province
South of Esmeraldas, rests the coastal province of Manabí. The word "rests" may serve to describe the location of Manabí, but it does not function as an adjective for the area's character. Manabí is "world famous" in Ecuador for its late nights and beautiful people.
The beach cities along the Manabí coast are very popular with Quiteños and Guayaquileños; all summer long and during holidays, Ecuadorians head to such beach towns as Puerto López, Montañita, and Bahía de Caráquez, as well as Machalilla National Park, with the near perfect beach of Los Frailes - arguably the best on South America's Pacific Coast - and plenty of wildlife.

Whale-watching, snorkeling, and margaritas on the beach are just a few of the pursuits you can look forward to while visiting the relatively undiscovered province of Manabí.

The Central Coast
Montañita to Isla de la Plata (excerpt from the "Montañita to Isla de la Plata" page , by Sarah Lazarus)

The middle section of Ecuador's Pacific coastline is an excellent place for a holiday. It features miles of pristine beaches set in sweeping bays, lively fishing villages and unique pre-Columbian archaeology. Ecuador's "middle coast" is the southern portion of Manabí and the northern part of the Guayas Province.

Guayaquil and Southern Guayas Province
The Guayas Province is home to Guayaquil, Ecuador's largest city and chief port. Guayaquil's Puerto Marítimo opened in 1964 and now handles approximately 90% of Ecuador's imports and nearly 50% of its exports. Known more for its commercial prowess than as a vacation spot, historically Guayaquil has not made it on many tourists' itineraries. This being said, Guayaquil's new Mayor is giving the City a facelift and is working hard to make it both attractive and friendly to tourists. One of the more ambitious elements of the Mayor's plan is the renovation of Malecón Avenue. The well known, riverside street now includes a number of parks, restaurants, and a new theatre. In addition to Malecón, the picturesque Las Peñas district and the Plaza Centenario are worth a look. These are just a few of the attractions that Guayquil visitors should check out. Like Guayaquil, the Guayas Province deserves more attention than it gets, especially the beaches of Montañita, Punta Blanca, Playas (General Villamil), and Puntas Arenas.

El Oro Province
El Oro stretches from Guayaquil to the Peruvian border. Considered by many as nothing more than way station between Ecuador and Peru, El Oro can surprise those willing to spend a few days exploring it.

The thriving banana and shrimp producing city of Machala divides El Oro's portion of coast in two. While not a beautiful destination in itself, Machala is a great jumping off point for exploring the mangrove circled town of Puerto Bolívar, the markets of Santa Rosa, and the delightful gold-mining community of Zaruma.

On the Río Zarumilla, just across the border from Peru, sits Huaquillas the main immigration point between the two countries. Outside of its function as a checkpoint and a shopping destination for Peruvian's looking for bargains, Huaquillas offers travelers little else.
If you slept on the bus all the way through El Oro, do yourself a favor and take a day or two to wander north before heading to Peru, you will be pleasantly surprised by what you find

La Sierra

Not surprisingly, this region possesses Ecuador's most developed tourist industry, providing a wide range of accommodations, culinary options, shopping opportunities, and cultural festivals, all easily accessible from the capital of Quito. In addition to Quito, Otavalo and Baños are considered travelers' meccas, boasting an extensive infrastructure supporting tourism. In these towns you can expect a wide selection of restaurants, hotels and activities. Choose a luxurious suite in a 400-year old hacienda, or nestle down in a backpacker's $3 per night hostel. Dine on veggie pizza one day and barbecued guinea pig the next!

Quito
Most travelers arrive first in the capital of Quito, often described as a city with a small town atmosphere (although it is rapidly growing into a sprawling metropolis). Once the capital of the northern Incan empire, Quito is home to "Old Town", one of the most extensive colonial districts in Latin America. Named a World Heritage Site by the United Nations, Quito's Old Town will transport you back and forth between centuries as you meander down its cobblestone streets, passing by vendors selling everything from choclo (Andean corn) to ceramics to techno CDs.

Centrally located, Quito is also an excellent jumping-off point for a number of interesting one and two-day trips, including river-rafting, cloudforest exploration, birding, mountain biking and hotsprings, and more.

Otavalo
Imbabura province, north of Quito, is famous for its lakes, traditional adobe villages, indigenous communities and native handicrafts. The town of Otavalo is home to one of South America's most famed Indian market -- a definite stop for most visitors. This open-air extravaganza overflows with a wide variety of handicrafts, as well as llamas, hand-woven sweaters and bags of potatoes, all piled high and wide and sold side by side.
Surrounding Otavalo are a handful of well-preserved haciendas, a number of which now operate as B&Bs. Horseback riding programs home-based at these haciendas have recently become a popular way to experience the highlands. Two hours north of Otavalo is the Guandera Reserve, a spectacular sliver of Andean cloudforest and paramo, near the Colombian border.

Ibarra and the San Lorenzo Train
Ibarra, Imbabura's provincial capital, is also known as the White City due to its colonial whitewashed buildings, cobblestone streets and red-tiled roofs. Horse-drawn carts clattering down the streets add to the historic ambiance. Most travelers come to Ibarra to hop aboard the train which rolls its way down from the Andes to the coastal town of San Lorenzo, 193 miles away (Service at this point is intermittent. Check with our transportation section for more details).

Mitad del Mundo
Just north of Quito, you'll find the Mitad del Mundo, a monument marking the equator, is a convenient half hour from central Quito. It includes a museum with informative displays on Ecuador's four regions and ethnic groups. Don't miss the opportunity to place one foot in each hemisphere!

Avenue of the Volcanoes and Cotopaxi National Park
An hour and a half from Quito, along the Avenue of the Volcanoes, lies the dominant image on the Ecuadorian national psyche: the perfectly conical Cotopaxi volcano (5897m), one of the world's highest active volcanos. Most visitors with a bit of verve at least contemplate making the ascent to its 19,890 foot peak. The volcano is the highlight of Cotopaxi National Park, which straddles a number of provinces and protects a wide swath of Andean paramo, the Ecuadorian equivalent of the Arctic tundra, and homeland to the Andean condor and paramo fox.

Latacunga Loop
Just down the "Avenue of The Volcanoes", is the Latacunga Loop, a spectacular area for Andean trekking and getting-off-the beaten path. Adventurous trekkers who make the effort will be treated to incredible vistas, unequalled mountain hospitality, and the possibility of a spontaneous encounter with a llama herder or a gaggle of giggly pigtailed indigenous girls.
Traveling on these scenic back roads you can Visit Zumbahua's colorful Saturday morning market and see loads of llamas. Stop by Laguna Quilotoa, an emerald volcanic crater lake located high in the paramo at 3800 meters, and buy some Naif or primitive paintings from the indigenous artists. Completing the loop will take you through Chugchilan and the Rio Toachi Canyon system. Visit a European-style cheese factory high in the paramo or enter the Cloud Forest of the Iliniza Ecological Reserve. On Thursdays, don't miss one of the Sierra's most important markets in Saquisili. The Latacunga Loop gives visitors an authentic taste of the Ecuadorian highlands. Accomodations on the loop are available in Latacunga, Pujili, Zumbahua, Quilotoa, Chugchilan, Sigchos, and Saquisili. The trip can easily be broken up into two or three days.

Tungurahua Province
Tungurahua Province is famous for the Pujili and Salasaca Indian markets, where pre-Incan, Incan, Spanish and modern designs decorate the sides of ceramic bowls and tapestries. For the intrepid traveler, high and mighty Tungurahua volcano also beckons; the 5016 meter volcano has an illustrious and fiery past (just ask the locals), and is climb-worthy for those seeking a physical challenge.

Baños
After a long day of bargaining or climbing, you can unwind in the nearby hotspring baths of Baños, a town situated in a valley of eternal spring. Baños is also one of the gateways to the Amazon -- albeit down a hairsplitting eye-popping road. Also easily accessed from Baños is Riobamba, the starting point of the exhilarating train ride down the "Devil's Nose". Thrill-seekers can ride rooftop, which is the ideal place to watch the bucolic landscape roll by.
See the Baños page for more details.

Chimborazo
Ecuador's tallest volcano, Chimborazo (6,310 meters), embraces in its surroundings centuries-old indigenous communities that have maintained many of their ancient traditions. This cloud-piercing volcano also provides experienced climbers with a challenge requiring crampons and ice axes. Those who succeed in conquering the peak will be rewarded with out-of-this-world views from the summit.

Cuenca
Not many tourists venture farther south, but those who do delight in exploring Azuay and Loja provinces, known for their hospitality, unique cuisine, and charming pueblos nestled between the softened folds of the Andes. In Cuenca, Ecuador's third largest city, you can stroll the well-preserved colonial streets, trek through undulating countryside, and visit the nearby Incan ruins of Ingapirca.

Vilcabamba and Podocarpus National Park
In Loja visitors will find a splendid natural landscape. Vilcabamba, known for the longevity of its inhabitants, is a place for travelers who want to slow down and watch the flowers grow. A number of resorts catering to the backpack traveler (and others) offer therapeutic spa-like facilities. From Vilcabamba, it is possible to access Podocarpus National Park, an extraordinary collection of ecosystems ranging from paramo to endemic Podocarpus forests to rainforest (excellent for birding).

El Oriente

Welcome to the Amazon Basin, the world's largest remaining tropical rainforest. More life hums, buzzes, chatters and bubbles here than anywhere else on the planet. One Amazonian tree can host more ant species than all of the British Isles put together, one hectare of forest boasts about as many frog species as all of North America, and the great expanse of the jungle contains more than twenty percent of the earth's vascular plant species. Here you can find a monkey small enough to sit on your fingertip, an eight pound toad, a spider that eats birds, and the world's largest snake, the 30-foot anaconda.

Moreover, forty percent of all of all the earth's fresh water flows through the Amazon basin; more water than in the basins of the next six biggest rivers combined! In the Amazon river there are islands as big as Switzerland and otters bigger than men, and at certain points along it you can be in the middle and see neither shore. It snakes and swivels thousands of miles and draws in water from over 1500 water sources, including the Rio Napo in Ecuador, one of its primary tributaries plants are found in this equatorial swath of green.

This rainforest is home to thousands of indigenous inhabitants, who make up nearly 200 distinct nations, including the Siona, Secoya, Cofan, Shuar, Zaparo, Huaorani, and Quichua. The indigenous tribes that live in Ecuador's rainforest are the ancient keepers and guardians of the world's biological heritage - having lived there for more than 10,000 years, they know its trees, its animals, and its rhythms better than anyone.

From the Amazon come some of our favorite foods: avocado, black pepper, Brazil nuts, cayenne pepper, cashews, chocolate (cacao), cinnamon, eggplant, figs, ginger, sugarcane, vanilla, and yams. The rainforest also produces many medicines, such as quinine for malaria; curare for multiple sclerosis and Parkinson's disease; as well as many industrial products, including latex, resins, timber, oil, and other minerals.

Ecuador, with its 2% share of the Amazon (know as the Oriente), provides unparalleled opportunities for experiencing the magic of the rainforest. Not only does it have one of the world's best developed infrastructures for rainforest tourism, but most destinations are accessible within a day's journey from Quito, including:

  • Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve
  • Huaorani Protectorate
  • Upper Napo
  • Yasuní National Park

Whether you are looking for a luxury lodge with three-course meals and hot showers, a mud-up-to-your-knees trekking and camping adventure, or something in between, Ecuador has a program to meet your needs.

Tour the Amazon with one of our recommended rainforest tour operators.

You can learn more about indigenous forest peoples and the rainforest itself by joining one of the many community-based ecotourism programs offered in the Ecuadorian Amazon or by becoming a volunteer with one of the many non-profits working in the region.

Galapagos

On land and in the sea, the Galapagos Islands give the impression of a diabolic Garden of Eden. The islands' tumultuous volcanic history of scorched earth and fiery flows are evident the moment you arrive. Inhospitable. Uninhabitable. Tortured. These are the adjectives inspired by the lava-sea-scape.

But look closer... this seemingly spartan landscape is in fact teeming with life; the first of the Galapagos' many contradictions. Suddenly you realize that what you thought was a rock is in fact a sun-seeking iguana! And to add to your surprise, it doesn't seem the least bit perturbed by your intrusive gaze... another Galapagos contradiction.

When Charles Darwin (the guy with the Beagle) arrived to the islands in 1835 he admitted to being a bit tormented by the thousands of iguanas laying about:

"One doesn't get used to their hideous appearance, one is never entirely free of a sense of unease. Some say they look like guardians of Hell or condemned spirits or dragon spawn."
-Charles Darwin

The creatures of the Galapagos are survivors of a tortured landscape, an otherworldly archipelago nine-hundred miles out at sea. And because of their long history of isolation from Homo Sapiens, both land and sea animals remain virtually fearless and unaffected by visitors. As a visitor to the Galapagos, you will swim goggles to whiskers with sea lion pups, penguins, and sea rays, in addition to turtles and tropical reef fish. On land you will find yourself sidestepping over hundreds of Darwin's dragon spawn, as well as nesting blue-footed boobies, sea lions, and scuttling Sally Lightfoot crabs.

The islands are fortuitously positioned at the confluence of three distinct oceanic currents, creating a sea of contradictions, as well as one of the highest levels of marine endemism anywhere in the world: nearly one in four species is unique to the islands.

In the Galapagos, expect the unexpected:

Penguins swim through mangroves in the company of rainbow-colored reef fish, while whale sharks and schools of hammerheads circle in the same waters as the Moorish idol.

In 1934 the Ecuadorian government, in collaboration with the Charles Darwin Research Station, had the foresight to set aside a number of wildlife sanctuaries on the islands before finally declaring the Galapagos a national park in 1959. About 90% of the island territory is now protected and, thankfully, carefully managed. As a result, the park service only allows visits to about 50 sites, in addition to the islands' few towns. Rest assured that although most of the park is off limits, the sites available to visitors are among the most interesting: You won't be disappointed.

How to Island Hop
The most popular way to see the islands is by live-aboard yacht tours although land-based and scuba diving tours are also offered. Due to the increasing popularity of the Galapagos, a variety of boats are available for cruises, ranging from rickety sloops, to luxury air-conditioned sailing yachts, to mid-sized cruise ships.

Most of the boats share similar itineraries, so boat quality, price, crew and trip length are often more important considerations when booking a trip. Voyages vary in length from four to fifteen days.

One of the primary differences between the varying boat classes, besides the comfort of their accommodations, is the experience of the crew and naturalist guides. Top-end boats have top-end staff. Boats in the midrange category of superior tourist class (and up) have bilingual naturalist guides, usually with a university degree. (In the Galapagos, the adage, "what you pay for is what you get" couldn't be truer).

To get the most of your Galapagos travels at least 6 days are recommended. Bear in mind that, the shorter the trip, the less you will see -- and there are a number of "don't miss" islands such as:

  • Española (natural wonder after natural wonder, from the immense blow hole, to the thousands of nesting blue-footed boobies, to the world's largest waved albatross colony);
  • Floreana (Devil's Crown, flamingos, Flour beach and one notorious witch); Bartolome (spectacular views); and
  • Black Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz (mangrove maze chock full of sharks, rays and sea turtles).

Most landings are by panga (dinghy) onto sandy or rocky beaches; so be prepared for what are known as wet landings and dry landings. Wet landings require you to wade to shore in up to knee-deep water, while dry landings are made along rocky outcroppings, and require a bit of agile grace to avoid turning a dry landing into a wet one (watch-out for slippery seaweed!). In addition to naturalist-guided tours on land, you will have plenty of time for underwater frolic with your snorkel, flippers and mask -- and the local sea lion contingent.