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Whoever decides to spend some time in Rio wanting to experience
something else then the traditional touristy points and
tours, needs to find out more about the best places and
the best days to take pleasure in.
The best way to do that, of course, is meeting
some cariocas. A good company can tell you exactly which
are the current hot places, presenting you with a new
perspective of the city. From there you have only to relax
and enjoy. But as it is not always that easy to find that
kind of information, here are some basic tips of how to
fell at home, a carioca in Rio, the most beautiful city
in the world.
EVERY
DAY
The Beach
We all know the glamour of 'Copacabana'
beach, one of the postcards of Rio de Janeiro. Tip: The
best way to know this beach is by walking in its Portuguese
stone pavement. In your way you will find 'Futevolei'
nets, one of the fashionable sports that uses the volley
principles with a football ball and the feet. You should
also try the coconut water at any beach kiosk for U$1.00
and, of course, the sun.
The beaches of Rio are divided at every 600m by numbered
rescue posts located on its pavement and serving as a
reference meeting point for cariocas. But if you really
want to swim and see some of the hottest swimming outfits
on earth, the right place to go is 'Praia de Ipanema'
where the most beautiful people in Rio de Janeiro gather.
This place was, for example, the inspiration for the Bossa
Nova song "Girl from Ipanema".
The tip is to go down to the sand in between the posts
10 and 9. To refresh from the heat try the "Sucolé
do Claudinho", a delicious tropical fruit ice cream
that comes in a plastic wrap costing approximately U$1.00.
Late Afternoon
Late afternoon, after the beach, a compulsory stop are
the bars spread over the district of 'Leblon', noble part
of Rio. The most famous 'botequins' are Clipper and Bracarense,
the latter being elected by its drinking customers the
best 'chopp' in Rio de Janeiro.
In fact, who is unaware of that would never notice this
bar. The place is small and the tables are all over the
pavement. But the snacks prepared by the cooker Alaíde
Carneiro de Lima, a traditional 'mineira', are splendid.
The cassava, shrimp and catupiry chesse cake or 'bolinho
de camarão e aipim' (R$ 1,40) is mouth watering.
The black bean 'caldinho' too (R$ 2,20). The beer, from
traditional Brahma, is one of the best of the city. Rua
José Linhares, 85, Leblon
Night Tour
Monday: The night is long at COZUMEL, a three-floor
bar and disco close the lagoon 'Rodrigo de Freitas' at
the corner of 'J.J. Seabra' street. The reason is obvious:
the menu inspired in the Texan and Mexican cuisine is
full of spicy options and tequila based drinks. If you
come before midnight you pay only U$15.00 for free food
and drinks all night. After midnight, you pay normally
for your food and drinks.
The final touch is the constant flirting
that goes on around here - especially at the first floor
where is located the small dancing area. To get some courage
and enthusiasm try the lemon, strawberry,peach, mango
and pineapple margaritas.
Tuesday:
Black music night at AfroRio, club that is inside the
'teatro da Lagoa', next to 'MeliMelo', another famous
spot. At AfroRio expect to find live percussion with electronic
beats under a strong light-set. The DJs go through all
the variations of black music, from the black movement
of Rio during the 70's to soul, hip hop and drum'n' bass.
Expect to see a very beautiful crowd in there. Teatro
da Lagoa, Avenida Borges de Medeiros, 1426
Wednesday: The 'Nuth' is very fun
place, where the music, cozy decoration and indirect illumination
create a modern lounge ambiance. Opened a year ago at
'Barra da Tijuca', it is a chilled place where people
can meet to talk, have dinner, a drink, and play the pool
or simply to dance. 'Nuth' is a house with a tree's trunk
structure covered by a straw type material called 'sapê'.
In its front garden there are big wooden tables and chairs
coupled with a sweet water lake with 'carpas' and Japanese
fishes. Inside it, there is a large space where tables
don't get in the way of customers that wish to dance.
On the second floor there is a restaurant and the official
pool table. Wednesday is the night restricted to guests
and VIP's; the parties are organized by its promoters
but it is also the day that the crowd is most excellent,
so come early, around 8pm, and with a little luck you
will be able to get in.
Thursday: If you wish to know more
about samba, the real roots samba, this is the place to
come. It is a cozy and calm ambient to dance, eat and
sing. In the middle of 'Lapa', traditional district of
the carioca nightlife, between art-nouveau furniture and
glass cabinets from the beginning of the century, people
gather to enjoy the 'roda de samba' inside this antique
shop. The furniture, for sale, it's used by the customers.
There are also some snacks such as the cheese and meat
platter from U$ 6,00 and little cured meat and cassava
cakes or 'bolinhos de carne-seca com aipim' from U$ 3,00
the portion. A can of beer here costs U$1.00. The 'samba'
runs untamed from wednesday to saturday. There is an artistic
charge of R$2.50 and minimum consumption charge of U$2.50.Rua
do Lavradio, 100, Centro. From 18h/3h (Wednesday to friday)
and 21h/3h (saturday) Phone: 2852-5904
Friday:
The happy hour its is in Cobal do Leblon, an open ambient
with outdoor tables in a parking space that sprawls as
a big 'boteco'. In there, you will be able to find cheap
and good bars. Friday is the busiest day for its beautiful
people. To find a table after 9pm is a hard task, you
have to be patient. There is a timid and discrete flirting,
nothing obvious. They also have delicious pizzas between
U$8.00 and U$15.00 and the beer is ice cold. Cobal do
Leblon, Rua Gilberto Cardoso, s/nº, leblon
Saturday: Saturday is the best day
to go to 'Meli Melo' club at 'Lagoa'. Here is what people
say of the place: "There is everything inside, so
why are you still outside?" There are 3 different
areas with music, Japanese food, a lot of drinks and fun.
It is worth a look. The musical taste of this place it's
also very eclectic, mixing pop and techno. Each DJ set
is different, including performances, outrageous clothes
and dance at the DJ booth.
Still on saturdays, for whoever wants to
find out and enjoy more of the samba, you cannot miss
the 'Velha Guarda da mangueira'!!!
The
Velha Guarda da Mangueira or 'Old School of Mangueira'
has been an entertaining delight ever since its creation
in 1956. The founders of the group, Carlos Cachaça,
the great Cartola, and Aloisio Dias are legends of the
pure samba tradition, and their foundation has been representing
one of the most time-honored samba schools in Rio de Janeiro
(and therefore Brazil).
Composed of 12 'Mangueira' born musicians,
all of them carry their neighborhood deep in their hearts.
The group has 4 women (traditionally named "As Pastoras")
to lead solo and alternate chorus vocals. On the instrument
section: 'pandeiro', 'reco-reco', two 'tamborins', 'cuíca',
'ganza' and 'surdo'. In addition to mastering their instruments,
all members sing along. Two special guests also join the
party, Valdir Silva as the prodigious 'cavaquinho' player,
and Josimar Monteiro, state of the art musical director,
who also plays the 7-string guitar.
Even though some songs are true innovations,
the musical arrays always stand in the pure Mangueira
tradition; thus safekeeping the original sounds and authentic
resonant power of genuine roots samba. That is the reason
why every 'Velha Guarda da Mangueira' show is a unique
trip to the Brazilian neighborhoods jam sessions, a heart-warming
celebration where the audience ends up singing along.
'Velha Guarda da Mangueira' also toured Europe on summer
2000, with heartfelt shows at Amsterdam Viva Brasil Festival,
Hannover's Expo 2000, Paris' Bataclan, London's Barbican
Center, Berlin's Heimatklange and Wiesen Festival (where
the band joined Company Segundo for an historical meeting
of Brazil and Cuba) to name but a few. Every saturday
at 'Barracão Cultural da Mangueira' at Praça
11, behind the building 'Balança mas não
cai'.
Sunday
After going out all week and without
much money left, what about an energizing bowl of 'açai'?
'Açai' is a fruit typical of the Amazon region,
that when crushed with an extract of 'guaraná'
becomes a refreshing and natural energetic drink. Try
it in Bibi Sucos at Av. Ataúlfo de Paiva, district
of 'Leblon'; it will cost around U$3.00. After the beach
and a
sunny day you will certainly feel ready for another week.
In
Ipanema, the 'Casa da Feijoada' (Rua Prudente de Morais,
10), the 'Barril 1800' (Avenida Vieira Souto,
110) and the 'Caffé Felice' (Rua Gomes Carneiro,
30) are also some good options for dining and drinks.
Go
to the bar 'Garota de Ipanema' (Rua Vinícius de
Morais, 49), where Tom Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes
wrote the famous song "The girl from Ipanema",
and try its famous 'quibes' (meat balls).
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